Gorgeous Gorge
Gorgeous Gorge
by Brian Churchman
Nitmiluk means “place of the cicada dreaming”. Golly.
As moved as I am by the gentle names placed softly on this area by the local Jawoyn people untold ages ago, when I think of cicadas, I don’t think of dreaming, I think of screaming.
Cicadas are terribly annoying. I assure you, if they are around, there’s no dreaming going down.
But perhaps within this basic difference in interpretation of nature lay something to be gained. A lesson learned.
Slow down.
Listen.
Paddle? Sure.
From May to October each year, the Katherine River in Nitmiluk National Park dries to a canoe-able level. The saltwater crocodiles that may have wandered up this far in the wet season in search of human flesh are carried back to where they belong, and you arrive after reading this with an idea bubble above your head portraying a portrait of you smiling in a canoe.
In the center of Australia’s Top End, which pokes up into the Timor Sea to have a look at Timor-Leste (East Timor); the park formerly known as Katherine Gorge National Park has drawn you here for that very formation: Katherine Gorge.
Comprised of 13 gorges that meander 12 kilometers through the Arnhem Land Plateau, Katherine Gorge boasts 70 meter high red sandstone cliffs, waterfalls, lonely pools and freshwater crocodiles.
Don’t look at me like that; they’re totally harmless.
Although you can limit your trip to one day, visiting only the first few gorges, the Whole Enchilada should include an overnight stay at one of the 2 campsites along the route.
This is truly remote country.
The sounds of man are foreign here, and you won’t have to check in with DarkSky to see how the stargazing will be that night. It will be stunning.
Swim. Leap. Drag your canoe between gorgeous gorges.
Stay gone awhile.
How’s The Drive?
Katherine Gorge is only 30km from Katherine down a 2WD bitumen (crazy speak for asphalt…) road. Check road conditions, but only on rare occasions during the wet season will this road be closed. But seriously, check the road conditions before you get there.
